What is a campus board?

A campus board is a training tool used by climbers to improve finger strength, upper body power, and dynamic movement skills. It consists of a wooden or metal frame with a series of evenly spaced horizontal rungs (called campus rungs) that climbers use to perform various exercises. Here’s a detailed overview of a campus board:

Key Features of a Campus Board:

1. Structure:
   • Frame: Typically mounted on an overhanging wall at an angle of around 10 to 20 degrees.
   • Rungs: A series of wooden or resin rungs spaced at regular intervals (commonly around 20 cm apart). These rungs come in different sizes to accommodate various training needs.
2. Types of Exercises:
   • Basic Ladders: Climbing up and down the rungs using only hands, without using feet. This can be done using matching hands (both hands on the same rung before moving) or in a more dynamic, alternating hand-over-hand fashion.
   • Max Reach: Moving up the board as far as possible with one hand, then matching with the other hand.
   • Touches: Reaching up to touch a high rung and then returning to the starting rung, focusing on explosive power and control.
   • Intervals: Performing moves with timed intervals for endurance and power endurance training.
3. Training Focus:
   • Power: Builds explosive upper body and finger strength.
   • Strength Endurance: Improves the ability to sustain high levels of force over longer periods.
   • Dynamic Movement: Enhances coordination and the ability to make powerful, controlled movements.

Benefits of Using a Campus Board:

1. Increased Finger and Upper Body Strength:
   • Directly targets the muscles used in climbing, including the forearms, biceps, shoulders, and back.
   • Strengthens tendons and ligaments in the fingers, reducing the risk of injury during climbs.
2. Enhanced Dynamic Climbing Skills:
   • Improves the ability to make dynamic, explosive moves, which are essential for tackling difficult climbing problems and routes.
   • Enhances coordination and timing, critical for successful dynos (dynamic jumps) and powerful moves.
3. Focused Training:
   • Allows for targeted training of specific weaknesses, such as finger strength or lock-off power.
   • Provides a controlled environment to perform high-intensity workouts.

Considerations and Safety:

1. Proper Technique:
   • Using the correct form is crucial to avoid injury. Climbers should engage their shoulders, keep elbows slightly bent, and avoid overstraining fingers.
   • Warm-up thoroughly before using the campus board to prepare muscles and tendons.
2. Injury Prevention:
   • Campus board training is intense and places significant stress on fingers, tendons, and shoulders. It is generally recommended for advanced climbers with a solid foundation of strength.
   • Avoid overtraining and ensure adequate rest and recovery between sessions. Incorporate stretching and antagonist muscle exercises to maintain balance.
3. Gradual Progression:
   • Beginners should start with larger rungs and simpler exercises, gradually progressing to smaller rungs and more complex movements.
   • Focus on quality over quantity; controlled, precise movements are more beneficial and safer than sloppy, rushed repetitions.

How to Start Campus Board Training:

1. Assess Your Readiness:
   • Ensure you have a good base level of climbing strength and experience. Campus board training is intense and best suited for those who already have a solid climbing foundation.
2. Warm-Up:
   • Perform a thorough warm-up, including general aerobic exercises, dynamic stretches, and light climbing or finger exercises.
3. Basic Exercises:
   • Begin with simple exercises like matching ladders or basic pull-ups on the rungs. Focus on controlled movements and proper form.
4. Progress Gradually:
   • Increase the difficulty by incorporating more dynamic exercises, reducing the rung size, or adding weight as you gain strength and confidence.
5. Cool Down:
   • Finish with gentle stretching and mobility exercises to aid recovery and maintain flexibility.

Sample Campus Board Workout:

1. Warm-Up:
   • 10 minutes of general aerobic exercise (e.g., jogging or jumping jacks).
   • 5-10 minutes of finger and shoulder mobility exercises.
2. Main Workout:
   • Matching Ladders: Climb up and down the rungs, matching hands on each rung. Perform 3 sets of 10 repetitions.
   • Max Reach: Reach as high as possible with one hand, then match with the other. Perform 3 sets of 5 reaches per hand.
   • Touches: Touch a high rung and return to the starting rung. Perform 3 sets of 5 touches per hand.
   • Pull-Ups: Perform 3 sets of 5-10 pull-ups on the largest rungs.
3. Cool Down:
   • Gentle stretching focusing on forearms, shoulders, and fingers.

A campus board is a powerful tool for climbers looking to enhance their finger strength, upper body power, and dynamic climbing skills. When used correctly and safely, it can lead to significant improvements in climbing performance. However, it should be approached with caution, proper technique, and adequate rest to prevent injury. Incorporating campus board training into a well-rounded climbing routine can help climbers tackle more challenging routes and problems.