What is hang boarding?

Hangboarding, also known as hangboard training, is a form of climbing-specific strength training that focuses on improving finger strength, grip endurance, and overall upper body strength. This is done using a hangboard, a specialized piece of equipment with a variety of holds that mimic those found on climbing routes. Here’s a detailed look at hangboarding:

Key Features of Hangboarding:

1. Hangboard Design:
   • Variety of Holds: Hangboards come with different types of holds, such as jugs, crimps, slopers, pockets, and edges.
   • Material: They are typically made of wood or resin. Wooden boards are gentler on the skin, while resin boards often provide better friction.
2. Types of Exercises:
   • Hangs: Static holds where the climber hangs from the board for a set duration.
   • Repeaters: Repeated intervals of hanging and resting, commonly used to build endurance.
   • Max Hangs: Short, intense hangs with added weight to increase maximum finger strength.
   • Pull-ups: Pull-ups on different types of holds to build upper body strength.
   • Finger Curls: Isolated finger flexion exercises using specific holds.
3. Training Programs:
   • Structured programs often include a mix of the above exercises tailored to different goals, such as strength, endurance, or power.
   • Sessions typically last between 10 to 45 minutes and should be incorporated into a broader training regimen to avoid overuse injuries.

Benefits of Hangboarding:

1. Increased Finger Strength:
   • Directly targets finger flexor muscles, improving the ability to grip small holds and edges.
2. Enhanced Grip Endurance:
   • Builds the endurance needed to maintain grip strength over longer climbs.
3. Improved Climbing Performance:
   • Specific strength gains translate to better performance on difficult routes and boulder problems.
4. Time-Efficient Training:
   • Provides a highly effective workout in a relatively short amount of time.
5. Accessibility:
   • Hangboards are compact and can be mounted at home, allowing for convenient training.

Considerations and Safety:

1. Proper Technique:
   • Maintaining proper form is crucial to prevent injury. This includes engaging the shoulders, keeping elbows slightly bent, and avoiding excessive swinging.
   • Beginners should start with easier holds and gradually progress to more challenging ones.
2. Injury Prevention:
   • Hangboarding places significant stress on the fingers, tendons, and ligaments. Adequate warm-up, gradual progression, and rest are essential to prevent injuries like tendinitis or pulley tears.
   • Incorporating rest days and listening to your body to avoid overtraining is critical.
3. Age and Experience:
   • It’s generally recommended for more experienced climbers who have a solid foundation of climbing technique and strength.
   • Younger climbers or those new to climbing should focus on technique and general climbing before starting hangboard training.

How to Start Hangboarding:

1. Select a Hangboard:
   • Choose a hangboard with a variety of holds suited to your skill level and training goals.
2. Install the Hangboard:
   • Mount the hangboard securely on a solid structure, such as a door frame or a specially designed training area.
3. Warm Up:
   • Perform a thorough warm-up to increase blood flow and prepare the muscles and tendons. This could include general exercises like jumping jacks, dynamic stretches, and light climbing.
4. Begin with Basic Exercises:
   • Start with basic hangs and gradually introduce more complex routines like repeaters and max hangs.
   • Focus on form and technique, ensuring shoulders are engaged and elbows are slightly bent.
5. Progress Gradually:
   • Increase intensity and duration slowly over time. Avoid rushing into advanced exercises to prevent injury.
6. Rest and Recovery:
   • Include rest days to allow for muscle and tendon recovery. Avoid daily hangboard sessions, especially when starting out.

Sample Hangboard Workout:

1. Warm-Up:
   • 10-15 minutes of general aerobic exercise (e.g., jogging or jumping jacks).
   • 5-10 minutes of finger and wrist mobility exercises.
2. Main Workout:
   • Repeaters: Hang for 7 seconds, rest for 3 seconds. Repeat 6 times per set, 3-5 sets.
   • Max Hangs: Hang for 10 seconds with added weight, rest for 3 minutes. Repeat 5 times.
   • Pull-Ups: Perform 3 sets of 5-10 pull-ups on jug holds.
3. Cool Down:
   • Gentle stretching focusing on forearms, shoulders, and fingers.

Hangboarding is a powerful tool for climbers looking to improve their finger strength and overall climbing performance. When done correctly and safely, it can lead to significant gains in grip strength and endurance. However, it should be approached with caution, proper technique, and adequate rest to prevent injury. Incorporating hangboard training into a well-rounded climbing routine can help climbers tackle more challenging routes and problems.