What is the route setting?

Route setting is the process of designing and creating climbing routes or problems on climbing walls. This is done by strategically placing holds in various configurations to create specific challenges for climbers. Route setting is both an art and a science, requiring creativity, technical knowledge, and an understanding of climber abilities and safety.

Key Aspects of Route Setting:

1. Objective:
   • Challenge: Create routes that challenge climbers physically and mentally.
   • Progression: Develop a range of difficulties to cater to beginners, intermediates, and advanced climbers.
   • Competition: Design routes that test specific skills and strengths in a competitive environment.
2. Types of Climbing:
   • Bouldering: Short, powerful problems with a focus on strength, technique, and problem-solving.
   • Lead Climbing: Longer routes that test endurance, technique, and strategic planning.
   • Speed Climbing: Standardized routes focused on speed and efficiency.
3. Steps in Route Setting:Planning:
   • Objective and Difficulty: Determine the goal of the route and its intended difficulty level.
   • Theme: Decide on a theme or specific techniques to be highlighted (e.g., balance, power, technical moves).
   • Space and Holds: Assess the wall space available and select appropriate holds.
   Setting:
   • Initial Setup: Place holds on the wall in a preliminary configuration based on the planned route.
   • Testing and Adjusting: Test the route multiple times, making adjustments to ensure the intended difficulty and flow.
   • Marking: Clearly mark the start and finish holds and any specific sequences or zones for competitions.
   Finalization:
   • Quality Check: Ensure holds are securely fastened and the route is safe.
   • Labeling: Assign grades to the route based on difficulty and provide information on the intended sequence.
   • Feedback: Gather feedback from climbers and make further adjustments if necessary.
4. Considerations for Route Setting:Safety:
   • Hold Security: Ensure all holds are securely fastened and checked regularly.
   • Fall Zones: Design routes with safe fall zones, especially for bouldering problems.
   • Equipment: Use appropriate and well-maintained setting tools and holds.
   Diversity:
   • Movement Variety: Incorporate different types of moves (e.g., dynos, crimps, slopers) to create diverse challenges.
   • Body Types: Consider climbers of different heights, reaches, and strengths to make routes accessible and fair.
   Aesthetics and Flow:
   • Visual Appeal: Design routes that are visually appealing and engaging.
   • Flow: Ensure the route has a natural flow, encouraging smooth and continuous movement.
5. Route Setting for Competitions:
   • Fairness: Design routes that fairly assess the skills of all competitors.
   • Tiebreakers: Include sections that can help differentiate competitors in case of ties.
   • Spectators: Consider the visibility and excitement for spectators, making routes engaging to watch.

Skills and Tools for Route Setters:

• Skills:
  • Climbing Proficiency: Understanding climbing techniques and movement.
  • Creativity: Designing innovative and engaging routes.
  • Problem-Solving: Adjusting routes to achieve desired difficulty and flow.
  • Technical Knowledge: Understanding of hold types, wall angles, and safety protocols.
• Tools:
  • Wrenches and Screwdrivers: For securing holds.
  • Drills: For installing new holds or volumes.
  • Ladders and Scaffolding: For reaching higher sections of the wall.
  • Tape and Labels: For marking routes and providing information.

Route setting is a crucial aspect of climbing that significantly impacts climbers’ experiences. Whether in a gym or at a competition, well-set routes can provide enjoyable, challenging, and safe climbing experiences. Good route setters balance creativity, technical skill, and safety to design routes that cater to a wide range of abilities and keep climbers engaged and progressing.